Understanding Twill Weave

Twill refers to a weave rather than a single raw material. Familiar clothing fabrics help show how yarn choice, surface treatments, and added pile can change the result. When comparing them, distinguish the underlying woven structure from the fiber and from a raised or textured finish that may dominate the appearance.

How the surface is formed

Corduroy is a woven fabric with raised ridges known as wales. The source describes an additional yarn system that forms floats, which are then cut to create the pile. Cotton is common, but polyester blends and other fiber choices are also possible. The ridges therefore identify the surface construction rather than one fixed composition.

Understanding Twill Weave: Corduroy's Raised Ridges Have Their Own Vocabulary

Understanding wale count

A wale number describes how many ridges fit into an inch. Fewer wales generally mean broader ridges, while a higher count produces a finer-ribbed appearance. This is a different measurement from fiber percentage or fabric weight. When comparing corduroy garments, consider the ridge size, the actual fiber content, and the body of the cloth rather than assuming all corduroy feels equally heavy.